Moone-Tsai Winery: Rich Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and More

Established in 2003, the Moone-Tsai winery has quickly risen to the top of the class of Napa County wineries. Mary Ann and Larry founded the winery with Mike Moone, former President of Beringer Wine Estate. Mary Ann Tsai also worked at Beringer and elsewhere until she and Larry Tsai decided to found their own winery.  They source fruit from some of California’s top vineyards in Napa Valley, the Russian River Valley, and the Sta. Rita Hills and make the wine with the assistance of Phillipe Melka, one of Napa’s best known consulting winemakers. My reviews of their wines can be found below.  In short, the wines are very, very good.

(credit Moone-Tsai)

Bordeaux native Phillipe Melka (shown here) started out interning at Chateau Haut Brion and Chateau Cheval Blanc before traveling the world to make wine in Australia and at Badia a Coltibuono in Italy’s Chianti Classico. Eventually, he ended up in California where he worked with Paul Draper at Ridge and Christian Moellieux at Dominus.  With this kind of experience it was no surprise that he established his own winery and a wine consulting firm called Atelier Melka, which today has over 30 clients, including Moone-Tsai where he has made the wine from the beginning. The Moone-Tsai wines are made at the custom crush facility, Brasswood Winery.

The Vineyards

Moone-Tsai sources fruit from several vineyards, the most important ones being Brion Estate/Montagna, Caldwell, Heintz, Our Lady of Guadalupe, and Ink Grade and Candlestick Ridge.

The newly renamed Brion Estate Vineyard (formerly called the Montagna Vineyard) was recently purchased by Brion Wise from Bob Long who planted 32 acres in 2001.  The vineyard is located on the south side of Lake Hennessey on Pritchard Hill at 1100’ altitude.  Yields are about 2.5 tons/acre. The vineyard is focused on Cabernet Sauvignon but also has small plantings of Italian white varieties like Arneis, Ribolla Gialla and Greco di Tufo. Moone-Tsai has a dedicated block that provides fruit for the Cor Leonis Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 65-acre Caldwell Vineyard, located east of the city of Napa near San Pablo Bay in the Coombsville AVA, was planted by John Caldwell in 1980.  It has volcanic soils and one of Napa’s coolest microclimates.  Block 6 provides fruit for the Cor Leonis Cabernet Sauvignon, while Block 15 provides fruit for the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 55-acre Heintz Vineyard is in the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley AVA; it’s located east of the town of Occidental at 780’ elevation, surrounded by Redwoods, and is about 7 miles from the Pacific Ocean.  Charles Heintz planted 25 acres of this vineyard to Clone 4 Chardonnay in 1982.  It’s regarded as one of California’s top Chardonnay vineyards. Moone-Tsai sources from the same parcels every year.

Located on the far west end of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA near Domaine de la Côte, Our Lady of Guadalupe was planted in 2018 by owner David Phinney.  Moone-Tsai sources its Pinot Noir from Our Lady of Guadalupe. Phinney’s own Pinot Noir has received accolades from the international wine press.

Ink Grade and Candlestick Ridge on Howell Mountain. The 220-acre Ink Grade vineyard has terraced vines planted on volcanic soils at 700-2200’ elevation on the east side of Howell Mountain.   It’s certified organic and farmed following biodynamic practices.  The 26-acre Candlestick Ridge Vineyard is situated on the north end of Howell Mountain at 2250’ elevation; it was replanted by Duckhorn Winery to primarily Bordeaux varieties in 1998. The Robert Craig Winery purchased the vineyard in 2015.

The Wines

Mary Ann & Larry Tsai (credit: Moone-Tsai)

Moone-Tsai 2021 Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast ($110) 96 Light yellow straw. This wine is in the upper echelon of California Chardonnays. Opens with coaxing aromas of lemon drop and citrus fruit with mineral and sweet barrel spice accents. Mouthfilling on a richly textured palate with fresh, juicy acidity. This is a refined, optimally ripened Chardonnay with firm edged flavors and an impressively long, rich phenolic finish. Labeled Sonoma Coast but sourced from one of California’s top, historic Chardonnay vineyards located in the cool, close-to-the-Pacific, Russian River Valley’s Green Valley and planted to Old Wente Clone 4. Whole cluster pressed with no malo and aged 17 months in 40% new French oak. 14.2% alc.

Moone-Tsai 2022 Pinot Noir Cuvée St Rita Hills ($120) 94 The Pinot Noir Cuvée reveals deep fruit aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and cherry confit. It shows significant flavor authority on the palate and has a long, flavorful finish. An excellent Pinot Noir, but  the richness and ripeness of this Cuvée is unlike the higher acid, leaner wines of some other Sta. Rita Hills producers. Sourced from Dave Phinney’s Our Lady of Guadalupe vineyard on the far west side of the Sta Rita Hills. 14.9% alc.

Moone-Tsai 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($130) 94 Saturated ruby red. This Napa Valley Cab offers a lot for the price. Opens with scents of cassis, mulberry and black tea with a light note of toasted oak. On the palate, it’s silky and mouth filling with medium plus depth and bright, lively dark red fruit flavors. One of the few Moone-Tsai wines you’ll find on restaurant wine lists. A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petite Verdot and 3% Merlot sourced primarily from Block 15 of the Caldwell Vineyard in Coombsville as well as other Napa Valley parcels. Matured 18 months in 50% new French oak. 14.6% alc.

Moone-Tsai 2019 Hillside Blend Howell Mountain ($170) 96 Opaque ruby core fading to dark brick at the rim. The bouquet reveals a spicy nose of black cherry, espresso, and graphite minerals. Firm mouth feel with impressive depth of black raspberry, cassis, dark cherry and a note of dark chocolate. Fine grained tannins and a persistent, rich finish. A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot sourced from an east facing hillside 2100? above the valley floor; aged 18 months in 60% new French oak. 15.1% alc.

Moone-Tsai 2019 Cor Leonis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($330) 98 Opaque carmine. Vibrant bouquet of spicy dark fruit, tobacco leaf and cola. Silky smooth on entry with dark fruit complemented by dark chocolate, savory herbs, violet flowers, and shale like minerals finishing on a deep, flavorful note of black fruit with hints of cedar. A top quality Napa Cab! Sourced from vineyards in Pritchard Hill, Coombsville and Sta Helena and matured 18 months in 70% new French oak. 15.1% alc.