Kysela Père et Fils Importer: 30 Years Importing High Quality, High Value Wines
Fran Kysela is one of America’s most successful, medium sized importers of premium wines at accessible prices. His firm Kysela Père et Fils celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, so we sat down with Fran and his son Joe at their offices in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley to talk and taste through a selection of the large number of wines that have created his success. We are not strangers to his wines. We’ve tasted them on a regular basis for at least two decades, and we attend his spring Mondovino warehouse portfolio tasting whenever we can.
Before getting to the wines, we asked Fran how he became a wine importer, and why locate his headquarters in rural Winchester. Fran had the good fortune to have a wine collector father who instilled a basic knowledge and love of wine. He remembers tasting his first Bordeaux wine at age 10, and he started his own cellar next to his father’s at the age of 12. A few years later he attended Ohio’s University of Miami where he was one of the few students preferring wine over beer. He started his own import business in 1994, but before that he worked 5 years for Kermit Lynch in Berkeley followed by stints at Weygandt and Vineyard Brands. The decision to locate in Winchester was mostly luck. He knew he had to locate an importing business near either the east or west coast, and his grandparents lived in nearby Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, but the deciding factor was his wife’s job offer.
In any case, 30 years ago he started out in Winchester. Today his company sells a half million cases of wine annually from 200 suppliers and distributes wine throughout North America. His portfolio runs the gamut from inexpensive to ultra-premium wines. What ties all these disparate wines from different countries and price levels together are quality and value. Fran travels and tastes extensively to find wines that meet his standards, whatever the price level. His wines invariably represent good value as revealed in our tasting notes. And the average price is low; 85 percent of his portfolio sells for $20 or less retail.
CHAMPAGNE
Roland Champion Founded in 1929 by André Champion in the Côte des Blancs Grand Cru village of Chouilly. His son Roland expanded the vineyards to the current 18 ha and gave his name to this RM estate. Today, the grandson François is the 3rd generation to make the Champagnes and his daughter Carole also has an active role in managing the estate. The vineyard holdings include 10 ha of Chardonnay in Chouilly and 8 ha of Pinot Noir and Meunier in the Vallée de la Marne. Wines are aged in their chalk cellar. Annual production is 7 thousand cases, more than half of which is sold sur lattes to negociants.
Roland Champion 2018 Special Club Grand Cru Champagne ($121) 93 Champagnes labeled Special Club are grower Champagnes (Recoltant Manipulant) made by 28 artisan wine makers in special vintages and subjected to a tasting panel prior to release. The 2018 vintage offers aromas of dried pear, baked bread, and a hint of smoky minerals. It’s dry and round on the palate with rich orchard fruit, shortbread and hazelnut flavors making for a rather bold style that would pair well with white meat dishes. Closes solidly dry. All Chardonnay from 45-year-old estate vineyards in Chouilly and aged 5 years on the lees in bottle. Dosage 4 g/L; 12.5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc.
LOIRE VALLEY
Maison Alain de la Treille Several generations of the Bougrier family are involved with this winery. Jean-Claude Bougrier created the label in 1985 in tribute to his good friend; his son Noël assumed management of the winery in 1988 and continues in that role with help from his son Nicolas and daughter Sophie. They have 3 wineries in the Loire Valley and 100 ha of vineyards in Touraine.
Alain de la Treille NV Symphonie Brut Crémant de Loire ($26) 92 A 90/10 blend of Chenin Blanc and Orbois made méthode tradtionelle with 12 months lees contact. Floral and pear-like bouquet and a dry, fruity palate with a graceful, creamy texture. Alain de la Treille 2022 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine ($16) 90 100{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Melon de Bourgogne aged on the lees for 6 months. Clean and fresh showing citrus fruit and a mineral edge. Outstanding value. Alain de la Treille Chardonnay Loire Valley ($13) 90 Stainless steel fermented and aged with wood chips lending subtle oak notes that compliment orchard fruit. Good varietal character and nice mineral-like finish. Another great value! Alain de la Treile Sauvignon Blanc Touraine ($20) 91 All Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley with complex notes from partial skin contact and 6 months on the lees. A delicious Sauvignon Blanc showing passion fruit, grapefruit, and a hint of nettles. Dry with good concentration and a long, clean finish. Alain de la Treille 2023 Les Folies Vouvray ($17) 91 With a light honeyed character, this is the perfect wine for spicy Asian cuisine. Quince and stone fruit show on a full bodied palate. Alain de la Treille 2023 Pinot Noir Loire Valley ($16) 89 Fermented and aged in stainless steel with no oak aging, this is a spicy, dark fruited Pinot Noir made in a suave, ripe style.
Domaine Jean Reverdy This estate located in Verdigny has been in the family for 10 generations and is now owned and managed by winemaker Christophe Reverdy, son of the late Jean Reverdy. He has 12 ha of vines divided into 15 parcels. We’ve tasted these wines multiple times over the years, always with positive reviews, especially for the Les Villots Rosé. Fran Kysela’s relationship with Reverdy began in the 1980s, and in 1994 when he started his import business, The Reverdy wines are the first he imported.
Domaine Jean Reverdy 2023 La Reine Blanche Sancerre Blanc ($33) 91 Sourced from select parcels of limestone, clay and marl soils, cold fermented and aged in stainless steel with no malo. A mineral and citrus nose is followed by a balanced and beautifully sculpted palate and a long, focused, mineral-like finish. Great Sancerre value! Domaine Jean Reverdy 2023 Les Villots Rosé Sancerre ($33) 92 We taste a lot of rosé each year (see our 2021 report Rosés from Around the World), and the Reverdy Rosé is always one of our favorites. The 2023 vintage doesn’t disappoint. Transluscent, light pink color. Incisive, pure red berry and cherry aromas and flavors finishing with a persistent fresh citrus note. Domaine Jean Reverdy 2022 Les Villots Sancerre Rouge ($30) 91 This all Pinot Noir Sancerre Rouge displays a medium dark red robe with spicy dark cheery aromas on the nose. On the palate, it reveals lovely dark cherry fruit with a touch of spice and is long on the palate. Sourced from vines grown on Sancerre’s clay and limestone soils and 20{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} matured in oak barrels. Great value.
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
Castelmaure This cooperative founded in 1921 today has 65 members farming 760 parcels totaling 412 hectares of clay, limestone, and schist soils around the village of Embres et Castelmaure in Corbières. The coop is quality oriented, carefully supervising vineyard management, harvesting only by hand, and employing talented winemakers (Antoine Robert and Fabrice Santini) to craft the wines in the state of the art, gravity-flow winery.
Castelmaure 2023 Vin-Gris Rosé Corbières ($14) 91 This blush pink colored Grenache based blend opens with scents of succulent fresh field strawberries and red rose petals. The floral character carries over to the softly textured yet clean and precise palate. A blend of 80{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Carignan and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault. Castelmaure NV La Buvette Languedoc-Roussillon ($12) 89 The NV Castelmaure displays a dark red robe and has an effusive almost candied red and black berry aroma. On the palate it is soft on entry and reveals excellent balance and freshness with medium dry tannins. This wine will drink well chilled. A blend of 60{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache and 40{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Carignan from 50 year old vines grown on schist and limestone soils. Castelmaure 2022 Col des Vents Corbières Rouge ($13) 90 The Col des Vents Corbièrep is an attractive blend of predominantly Grenache and Carignan. It displays an opaque color with aromas of black cherry and boysenberry and a hint of spice. It has a silky mouth feel and excellent freshness along with good concentration and firm acidity. Blend of 50{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Carignan, 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah and 5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault. Castelmaure 2020 Grand Cuvée Corbières ($20) 92 The Grand Cuvée Corbières is a savory wine and dark fruited. It displays a hint of toasted oak and leather on the nose. On the palate is shows good depth, firm tannins and excellent structure. An approximate 50/50 blend (the precise blend varies by vintage) of Grenache and Syrah aged 10+ months in 25{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} new barriques.
RHONE VALLEY
Domaine Corne Loup The Lafond family purchased its first vineyard in Tavel in 1966. Today, Jacques Lafond’s winemaker daughter Géraldine Lafond-Saunier manages the winery. They own 20 ha of vineyards in Tavel and another 25 ha in Lirac and Côtes du Rhône.
Domaine Corne Loup Rosé Tavel ($18) 91 Tavel is often called the rosé for red wine drinkers. The Corne Loup Rosé is pale red with a copper-orange tinge. It shows a zesty, spicy bouquet of Grenache fruit, and the palate delivers a solid punch of strawberry, red cherry and watermelon, finishing clean and long. Domaine Corne Loup 2023 Cotes du Rhone Rouge ($18) 91 This Cotes du Rhone offers an effusive nose of fresh dark red fruit with excellent flavor. It is beautifully focused and precise and vinified in a modern style. A real winner. A blend of 50{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 40{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah, 5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Mourvedre and 5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault from 40-year-old vines fermented and aged in concrete tanks. Domaine Corne Loup 2021 Lirac Rouge ($25) 92 A semi-opaque, dark fruited bottling with spice, black pepper, violets and earth. Traditional in style, it’s broad and mouth filling with tangy acidity on a concentrated, layered palate. A blend of 50{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 40{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Mourvedre from 40-year-old vines.
Château de Ségriès Henri de Lanzac purchased this Château in 1994 from Count Henri de Regis, the founder of the Lirac AOC. Today the estate has 58 ha of vineyards including 38 ha of Lirac Rouge on clay and limestone soils and 11 ha of Tavel on clay, limestone, sand and pebbles. Some of the vines are over 80 years old. His son-in-law Frederic Grasset is the winemaker. [see photo of Frederic and Henri].
Château de Ségriès 2023 Rosé Tavel ($28) 92 Medium dark pink. This substantial rosé opens with effusive aromas of red berries that carry over to a rich, red-fruited palate. Balanced, fresh and delicious. A blend of 50{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault, 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Clairette and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah from 60-year-old vines. Chateau de Segries 2022 Cotes du Rhone Rouge ($22) 91 Dark ruby. Spicy, dark berries show on the nose with hints of black cherry and herbs. Soft on the attack and traditionally styled with a light-medium weight plate. Lovely, complex fruit and savory flavors, finishing dry with lingering rich extract. A blend of 50{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 305 Syrah, 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault, and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Carignan matured in 90{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} concrete tanks and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} oak barrels. Chateau de Segries 2022 Lirac Rouge Cuvée Réservée ($24) 92 A spicy boysenberry, peppery liqueur-like nose. Soft on the attack with layers of juicy flavors followed by a long finish with dry tannins. The standout Lirac in the portfolio.
Domaine Grand Veneur/Vignobles Alain Jaume Funded by Mathieu Jaume in the commune of Orange in 1826, today the domaine and its 91 ha of vines are run by the 5th and 6th generations, Alain Jaume and his children. The Grand Veneur wines reviewed here are from certified organic vineyards. In addition to Grand Veneur, the family sell wines under the Chateau Mazane, Clos des Sixte and Alain Jaume labels.
Domaine Grand Veneur 2023 Blanc Côtes du Rhône ($12) 91 This Viognier-based white blend opens with a fragrant bouquet of almonds, beeswax, herbs and white flowers. It’s fresh on the attack with a firm mouth feel (thanks to the Clairette, which retains its acidity in the heat). White peach shows on the medium bodied palate. A blend of 50{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Viognier, 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Clairette, and 20{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Roussanne grown on limestone terraces of sandy clay and fermented in stainless steel. Domaine Grand Veneur 2023 Les Champauvins Blanc Côtes du Rhône ($17) 92 Medium yellow straw. This 100{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Viognier from the single vineyard Les Champauvins begins with a perfumed, floral nose accompanied by white stonefruit. Beautifully balanced and perfumed in the mouth with a seductive purity and waxy texture. Another stellar value from Fran Kysela. Domaine Grand Veneur 2021 Cotes du Rhone Rouge ($17) 91 Semi-opaque. Aromas of violets, purple plum and dark berries. Firm on the palate with notes of dark berries, licorice and lots of savory notes with a hint of bacon, finishing dry with firm tannins. Domaine Grand Veneur 2021 Vignobles Alain Jaume Cotes du Rhone Haut de Brun ($21) 92. This Grenache led blend is almost opaque with a spicy and peppery nose of dark fruit. Silky mouth feel with floral notes, excellent depth, round tannins and a dry finish. A blend of 60{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah, and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault. Domaine Grand Veneur 2021 Cotes du Rhone Rouge Les Champauvins ($23) 92 Red and black fruited nose. Full and integrated on the palate with nice bright fruit highlights of black raspberry, plum, and spice. Lovely, long finish. Made of 70{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 20{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Mourvedre. The Grenache is aged in concrete, and the Syrah and Mourvedre in used barrels. Domaine Grand Veneur 2020 Les Origines Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge ($68) 94 Earthy nose with dark berries and hints of leather. The palate is silky smooth with seamlessly integrated flavors and excellent balance. Finishes long and fine. One of Kysela’s most widely distributed wine, now in 40 states. A blend of 50{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Mourvedre and 20{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah from old vines (some over 70 years of age) matured in vats and oak casks. Domaine Grand Veneur 2021 Vielles Vignes Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge ($120) 95 Opaque in color with dark cherries and berries, underbrush and spice scents. A bright, modern style with copious dark fruit flavors on a rich, densely packed, and supple palate. Remarkably long finish. Sourced from very old vines (50-100 years old)—45{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 45{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Mourvedre, and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah—matured in concrete vats and oak casks.
Domaine de la Mordorée Christophe Delorme founded this domaine with his father in 1986 and made it into one of the top wineries of the Southern Rhône. Unfortunately, he died young a decade ago. His wife Madeleine and daughter Ambre now manage the estate and its 57 ha vineyard divided into 38 plots spread over 8 communes. The estate employs organic (certified 2013) and biodynamic (certified in 1920) practices in the vineyard and hand harvests all the grapes. The Domaine de la Mordorée’s longtime winemaker is Rémy Chauvet (shown here with Madeleine).
Domaine de la Mordorée 2023 La Reine des Bois Lirac Blanc ($55) 94 This old vine Garnacha Blanca and Clairette led blend sees some skin contact and partial fermentation and aging in wood. The result is an impressive, multi-faceted wine revealing a perfumed bouquet and beautifully balanced and fresh, densely flavored wine with elements of white peach, pear, citrus along with herbal notes. A hand picked blend of biodynamically cultivated 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 20{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Clairette, 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Viognier, 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Roussanne, 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Marsanne, and 5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Picpoul and Bourboulenc from 40 year old vines grown on galet roules. Fermented in 90{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} stainless steel and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} used casks; 205 of the wine aged in oak barrels for 6 months. Domaine de la Mordorée 2023 Rosé Côtes du Rhône ($26) 92 Medium copper salmon. Red berries and citrus show on the nose. On the palate there’s excellent freshness and bright acidity enhancing the light red fruit flavors. Beautifully balanced with excellent length and richness. A hand harvested blend of 40{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah, 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault, 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Carignan, and 5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Mourvedre from biodynamically cultivated vineyards; destemmed and give a few hours skin contact. Domaine de la Mordorée 2023 La Dame Rousse Rosé Tavel ($40) 93 Red copper salmon. This Grenache led rosé reveals a lively bouquet of cherry and red berry with a white pepper accent. It’s precise and focused with nice firmness and fresh acidity on the palate. A gorgeous rose from a blend of hand picked, biodynamically cultivated 60{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah, 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cinsault, and 10{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Clairette from 40-year-old vines. Domaine de la Mordorée 2023 Cotes du Rhone Rouge ($27) 91 Medium ruby red. This Grenache and Syrah led blend offers red berry fruit on the nose with a light herbal accent. It is medium weight with flavors of plum, red berries and black currants and has a long finish. Sourced from organic and Demeter biodynamic cultivated vineyards. Domaine de la Mordorée 2021 La Dame Rousse Lirac Rouge ($34) 92 Medium dark red. Shows red berries,plum and underbrush on the nose. Suave on entry with a silky mouth feel, layers of rich and pure flavors, and finishing with round tannins. Domaine de la Mordorée 2021 La Reine des Bois Lirac Rouge ($44) 94 A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. Opens with a dark red fruited nose. Elegant and silky on the attack leading to a layered, fresh palate and a long, fine finish. A blend of biodynamic cultivated 34{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Grenache, 33{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Syrah, and 33{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Mourvedre. 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} of the wine was aged in oak barrels for one year.
SPAIN
Bodegas y Viñedos de Labastida (i.e., Unión de Cosecheros de Labastida) is a quality-oriented winery that’s professionally managed with a new, very talented winemaker and one of Rioja Alavesa’s most skilled viticulturists. This Labastida wine cooperative is in the middle of a major, quality-oriented transformation. In 2006 the coop built a new winery with an unsustainable debt burden. Ten years later, The Basque government asked Iñigo Rubio, a native of the region who was then in management at Airbus in Germany, to take over leadership of the winery. His first act was to sell the new winery and name a new winemaker, Javier Cereceda. While the winery still faces financial challenges, it’s well on the way to building a reputation for quality wines from the Rioja Alavesa region, thanks to Iñigo, Javier, and the coops talented viticulturist César Castro. Today, the Unión de Cosecheros de Labastida has 80 members farming 300 ha of vineyards, producing four lines of wines—the traditionally oriented Solagüen, the export oriented Montebuena and Castillo Labastida, and the top wine, Manuel Quintano.
Montalbuena Rioja 2021 ($13) 91 Opaque. Spicy dark cherry with bright highlights. Smooth mouth feel and freshness. A versatile wine for pairing with food.
Luis Cañas (Villabuena) Founded by Luis Cañas, this family owned winery began selling bottled wine in 1970, although the family has been growing grapes and making wine for more tan two centuries. In 1989 Luis’ son, Juan Luis Cañas, assumed management of the winery. They cultivate over 400 ha of high altitude vineyards; 40 ha are certified organic with more on the way. The estate owns 134 ha of vineyards in Rioja Alavesa, including two old vine Viñedos Singulares—Prodonero, planted in 1945, and Ribagaitas, planted in 1930. Pedro Pablo Amurrio (shown here) is the enologist at Luis Cañas. Annual production is about 2.5 million bottles.
Luis Cañas 2021 Viñas Viejas Rioja Blanco ($24) 92 Pale straw. A beautifully balanced, oak-fermented Viura blend revealing a fresh, bright bouquet of tropical citrus. Lively on the attack with good flavor density, a round palate and bright acidity, finishing long and rich. Very nice! This blend of Viura with Malvasia and Tempranillo Blanco is sourced from old vines (57 years on average), fermented and aged in French and American oak with 6 months battonage. [Previously tasted at the winery and reviewed in our Report #97 Dynamic Rioja: Terroir, Youth & Climate.] Luis Cañas 2020 Crianza Rioja ($20) 91 This is a modern style, Tempranillo led blend that includes Viura and Malvasia. Medium dark ruby in color, it reveals a fresh, bright nose. The medium weight, suave palate is bright and easy drinking with good concentration and length. Made from grapes 30 years of age on average, destemmed, and aged 12 months in French and American oak. 14.5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc. Luis Cañas 2019 Reserva Selección de la Familia Rioja ($44) 93. This is a serious Tempranillo-led wine. Dark carmine in color with red and black fruit and hints of sweet oak on the nose. The structure is firm, and the flavors dense, revealing a silky textured palate of excellent depth. A blend of 85{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Tempranillo and 15{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from estate vineyards planted in the 1980s. Matured 20 months in 90{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} new French and American oak. 14.5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc Luis Cañas 2017 Gran Riserva Rioja ($51) 94 Almost opaque dark ruby. Penetrating, perfumed bouquet of spicy dark fruit. Concentrated flavors, focused and modern in style on the palate. Finishes with dry tannins. A blend of 95{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Tempranillo and 5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} Graciano from various old vine (50+ years on average) parcels in Villabuena. Matured 24 months in 50/50 French and American oak. 14.5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc.
Finca Sobreño This family project was established in 1998 in Toro by Roberto San Ildefonos (shown here with daughter Paloma, a graduate in enology from the Universidad de La Rioja and currently manager at Bodegas Sobreño and Altos de Rioja); the winery now has 80 ha of estate vineyards, more than half of which are certified organic, and another 155 ha of contracted vineyards. The vineyards are all Tinta de Toro pruned as bush vines. The winemaker is Oscar Martin, and the consulting enologist is Manuel Ruiz Hernández of Rioja.
Finca Sobreno 2021 Organic Toro ($17) 89 Earthy bouquet with notes of licorice and dried red berries. Tangy on the palate showing dark red fruit with good acidity, finishing with dry tannins. Finca Sobreno 2019 Crianza Toro ($18) 90 Big, rich, ripe nose. Broad on the palate showing dark red fruit on a sauve, nicely concentrated palate. Persistent, rich finish. Finca Sobreno 2017 Ildefonso Toro ($48) 93 Opaque, inky dark fruited nose with licorice and minerals. Big, broad, softly textured palate of excellent depth with very dark flavors and firm round dry tannina. Matured 18 months in 70{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} French and 30{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} American oak.
ITALY
Fattoria Riccuda (Castellina) is located southwest of the town of Castellina in Chianti with 7 ha of vineyards at 360m farmed organically. It has an 800-year history with several owners; in 2016 it was purchased by Bojola-Australi. The Bojola family also owns Tenute Squarcialupi La Castellina. The winemakers are Tommaso Bojola and his son, Cosimo Bojola (shown here).
Riccuda Chianti Classico 2020 Castellina in Chianti ($23) 91 Dark red robe. This Chianti displays dark red cherry and savory notes on the nose. It has a lovely mouth feel and a silky long palate. It is quite ripe in character with moderate tannins. Organically cultivated. Riccuda Chianti Classico Riserva 2020 Castellina in Chianti ($32) 93 Medium dark red robe. Red berry fruit on the nose with a hint of oak. Silky and elegant on the palate with flavors of red cherry. Quite refined.
THE NEW WORLD
Chakana Founded in 2002, Chakan is located in the foothills of the Andes in Mendoza province. The winery puts the focus on healthy vineyards and is certified organic and biodynamic. It has 80 hectares of vines in Luján de Cayo at 950 meters and another 41 hectares in the Valle de Uco at 1000 meters.
Chakana Estate Cabernet Franc 2021 Uco Valley ($13) 93 An outstanding Cabernet Franc. Opaque with a powerful bouquet of dark fruit and notes of tobacco and earth. Lush and juicy on the palate. Ripe flavors with firm tannins and a very long finish. Chakana Estate Malbec 2021 Uco Valley ($13) 90. Dark fruited with a savory herbal note. Round on the palate with ripe dark fruited flavors and a light herbal edge.
Thorn-Clarke Cheryl Thorn and David Clark both came from the Barossa Valley. In 1987 they started planting vines, in 1998 they made their first Shiraz, and in 2001 they founded the Thorn-Clarke winery. Today they have 240 ha of grapes in 5 vineyards in the Barossa and Eden Valleys. Their winemaker is Peter Kelly (pictured here). Fran was one of the first in America to taste Cheryl and David Clark’s first vintage (2001) of Shotfire Shiraz; he began importing it and today sells about xxx cases each vintage. He also brings in several other wines of theirs.
Thorn-Clarke 2020 Shotfire Dhiraz Barossa Valley ($27) 91 Rich and slightly jammy with a hint of mint on the nose. Big and broad on the palate with excellent depth of black raspberry flavors and a hint of eucalyptus. Medium long finish with lots of richness and depth. Matured 14 months in 40{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} new American hogsheads.
Prestige Wine Winemaker Tom Hinde has an impressive CV: winemaker at Flowers on the West Sonoma Coast, General Manager at Kendall Jackson, La Crema, and Hartford Family Wineries, and now the President and winemaker at Prestige Wine in Santa Rosa. His longstanding grower relationships provide him with top quality fruit with which to craft outstanding Sonoma and Napa wines.
Prestige Wine 2022 Sonoma Bench Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($28) 91 Medium yellow gold. Rich fruit runs through this Chardonnay from the first whiff to the long finish. Aromas and flavors of citrus and orchard fruit complemented by hints of brioche and toast. Hand sorted, whole cluster pressed and fermented with native yeasts with battonage through malo; aged in 25{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} new French oak for 10 months.Prestige Wine 2021 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($30) 92 Medium ruby. A Burgundian style Pinot Noir revealing red fruit with herbal notes on the nose. Soft on entry with medium concentration on the palate. Nice herb-tinged flavors with a hint of dry leaves. An exceptionally good Russian River Pinot Noir for the price.Prestige Wine 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($49) 92 Opaque. Spicy dark fruited nose with a hint of cigar box. Suave and silky on the palate, this Napa Cab has a lovely mouth feel with firm tannins. 14.8{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc. Great value for a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in French oak barrels for 16 months.
