Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery: On Top of the World Overlooking the Pacific

Lester and Linda Schwartz met at the University of Cape Town (which my wife also attended) in the 1960s and later emigrated to the US where in 1994 they began planting their Fort Ross vineyard on Sonoma’s high coastal ridge overlooking the Pacific. Given where they come from, it’s only fitting that Chenin Blanc and Pinotage would be in the vineyard, and both wines are among the very best, if not the best, examples of either variety made in California today. They have 32 small blocks of vines on 53 acres that range from 1200 to 1700 feet in elevation with marine sedimentary soils. The vineyard benefits from the cool Pacific breezes but mostly lies above the coastal fog, allowing grapes to fully ripen.  Jeff Pisoni has been winemaker since 2009.  Our reviews follow.

A remote area mostly used for sheep-herding, the Fort Ross Seaview region has attracted adventurous vignerons like Lester and Linda Schwartz for decades.  Among the other important pioneers of the region are Mike Bohan, David Hirsch, and Helen Turley.  Today, there are 555 acres of vineyards but few wineries.  Fort Ross-Seaview was granted AVA status in 2012.  Only vineyards lying between 920- and 1800-feet elevation are included within the AVA.

For more on this very special winegrowing region, read our report The West Sonoma Coast: The Region and its Wines.   And if you’re interested in finding out more about Chenin Blanc in the country where it reigns supreme, read our report 1ooth report: Chenin Blanc: South Africa’s Vinous Treasure.

The Wines

Jeff Pisoni

Fort Ross Vineyards 2022 Chenin Blanc Fort Ross Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview ($44) 94 Opens with scents of orange blossom, beeswax and lemon peel. Thia wine has good varietal character and excellent balance. It’s very dry with firm, tangy acidity, generous concentration and impressive purity. The palate reveals both fruit and savory elements with a fine vein of minerality. Impressive persistence on the finish. Aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 13{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc.

Fort Ross Vineyards 2021 FRV Chardonnay Fort Ross Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview ($48) 93  Medium yellow gold. A terroir driven Chardonnay showing wet stones and earth along with nuanced yellow apple, cling peach and hints of hazelnut and barely discernible oak. The palate is juicy and vibrant with rich extract on a persistent finish.  Hyde & Old Wente field selections from the estate vineyard handpicked at night, hand sorted in the vineyard, whole cluster pressed and fermented with full malo and aged in 35{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered. 13.5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc.

Fort Ross Vineyards 2023 Rosé of Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview ($0) 93 Medium salmon copper color. Vibrant aromas of pomegranate, dried rose petals and a dash of blood orange. Full in the mouth with generous flavors, savory notes that lend complexity and edgy acidity with a firm backbone. Finishes very long and dry with rich extract. 13{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc.

Fort Ross Vineyards 2019 Pinotage Fort Ross Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview ($62) 93  Semi-opaque. Dark berry fruit with herbal notes show on the nose. This Pinotage is Pinot Noir-like, medium weight with a lovely silky mouth feel and rich breadth of texture. Bright notes show on the palate, and the long finish reveals rich dark red cherry flavors. Proprietary clones MM1 and MM3 cold soaked for several days and then fermented in a 5 ton tank before aging 12 months in 20{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} new French oak. The clones were developed by UC Davis from budwood imported by Fort Ross from a prime South African vineyard. 13.5{83994d7454f8ce68441ea8152244c292227c3db19076e7622c8f5ff92141c35a} alc.

Don Winkler, Publisher